Tranny A-Frame modification

Before I could start laying out where the fuel lines would go, I needed to install the fuel filter. Once again, it's nice to be able to fit into tight spaces to reach tough spots for drilling.

(Click photos to enlarge).

I switched to an in-tank fuel pump, which had a different sized fitting. So the semi-rigid line that came with the kit was replaced with flexible fuel line, which got rid of an ugly kink in the line.

This is where things get interesting when you go off the ranch. The tranny A-frame interfered with the oil pan of my auto tranny. So I called in the help of Fabrication Boy (Zac) and he modified the frame with cuts and welds to clear the pan. Here's the jig for keeping everything in place during the modification work.

Zac welding up the frame.

Modifications complete.

Since the engine and tranny are temporarily installed, the A-frame was mounted up un-painted. When the engine and tranny come back out, I'll paint the A-frame glossy black.

The modified A-frame in place, now clearing the tranny pan.

View from below looking up at the completed A-frame.

I have a few tabs on the tranny that will need to be filed down (like the one shown below) where it currently interferes with the frame. Also, the bracket for the starter may require a notch in the frame, but we'll see once   everything gets bolted down. I also temporarily put the header on to see where to route tranny cooler lines, the tranny dip stick, and fuel lines. 

1st Engine & Tranny fit

Last summer (June 2012) we were able to do the first installation of the engine and transmission. I wanted to get the engine and tranny in to see how they fit, and where I would be able to route all of the fuel, brake, and tranny cooler lines, along with all of the other plumbing. My plan was to do a first fit, make the modifications, pull the engine and tranny back out, paint the aluminum engine bay panels, permanently rivet them in, and then install the engine and tranny for real.

(Click photos to enlarge).
It was easiest to move the tranny around on a furniture dolly with padding.

Bolting the tranny up to the engine.

Wheeled the engine shipping crate and the tranny dolly as close to the car as possible before the big lift.

Engine finally free of the shipping crate.

Bolting the motor mounts on.

Finally getting the engine and tranny in.

Of course, this stuff doesn't go smoothly on the first try. Here's a short video of the process sped up 4X. There's lots of checking for interference, and jacking the car up off of the chassis dolly before the engine and tranny finally clear the frame. But now we've got an idea of where the tranny interferes with the frame and what modifications need to be made. After the changes, the engine and tranny should go in much smoother the second time around.