Tranny A-Frame modification

Before I could start laying out where the fuel lines would go, I needed to install the fuel filter. Once again, it's nice to be able to fit into tight spaces to reach tough spots for drilling.

(Click photos to enlarge).

I switched to an in-tank fuel pump, which had a different sized fitting. So the semi-rigid line that came with the kit was replaced with flexible fuel line, which got rid of an ugly kink in the line.

This is where things get interesting when you go off the ranch. The tranny A-frame interfered with the oil pan of my auto tranny. So I called in the help of Fabrication Boy (Zac) and he modified the frame with cuts and welds to clear the pan. Here's the jig for keeping everything in place during the modification work.

Zac welding up the frame.

Modifications complete.

Since the engine and tranny are temporarily installed, the A-frame was mounted up un-painted. When the engine and tranny come back out, I'll paint the A-frame glossy black.

The modified A-frame in place, now clearing the tranny pan.

View from below looking up at the completed A-frame.

I have a few tabs on the tranny that will need to be filed down (like the one shown below) where it currently interferes with the frame. Also, the bracket for the starter may require a notch in the frame, but we'll see once   everything gets bolted down. I also temporarily put the header on to see where to route tranny cooler lines, the tranny dip stick, and fuel lines. 

1st Engine & Tranny fit

Last summer (June 2012) we were able to do the first installation of the engine and transmission. I wanted to get the engine and tranny in to see how they fit, and where I would be able to route all of the fuel, brake, and tranny cooler lines, along with all of the other plumbing. My plan was to do a first fit, make the modifications, pull the engine and tranny back out, paint the aluminum engine bay panels, permanently rivet them in, and then install the engine and tranny for real.

(Click photos to enlarge).
It was easiest to move the tranny around on a furniture dolly with padding.

Bolting the tranny up to the engine.

Wheeled the engine shipping crate and the tranny dolly as close to the car as possible before the big lift.

Engine finally free of the shipping crate.

Bolting the motor mounts on.

Finally getting the engine and tranny in.

Of course, this stuff doesn't go smoothly on the first try. Here's a short video of the process sped up 4X. There's lots of checking for interference, and jacking the car up off of the chassis dolly before the engine and tranny finally clear the frame. But now we've got an idea of where the tranny interferes with the frame and what modifications need to be made. After the changes, the engine and tranny should go in much smoother the second time around.

Engine arrived and fuel tank installed

I'm back! I took few months of the build off to help my parents with some work on their property. Now that I'm back I need to update a few things from the break.

I left off with the steering system. In early January I drilled the front panel and painted it hammertone grey to match the F-panels, and riveted the panel on.

(Click photos to enlarge).

Back in January, my engine and transmission arrived. The top questions I get related to the build are 1) What color are you going to paint it? and 2) What engine are you putting in it? So here's the answer to Question #2:

• Ford Racing 302
• GT 40 Heads
• Edelbrock Performer RPM Manifold
• Holley Avenger Throttle Body Injection
• Ford Racing Valve Covers and Air Cleaner (Christmas gift)
• TCI Streetfighter AOD

My goal is a nice street car. Racing motorcycles I learned street vehicles are for the street, track vehicles are for the track. All of the crazy stuff will happen when I build an FFR Coupe for the track. ;) It's amazing how critical people become when they learn what you are putting in a car you are building. A 302? That's it?!? AOD? Everyone knows manual transmission shifting is the extension of a penis! Yes, well, my response is that if they don't like it, they can do whatever they want when they build their own car. Which many are not. Ah well.

The engine had to be picked up at the freight depot, so Zac picked it up in his truck. Many jokes ensued online about a Ford engine in the back of a Chevy truck.

Getting the crate out of the truck was a bit tricky.  

 Shiny!

Figured it would be best to get the manifold on to cover up some of the holes.

First, paint gasket sealing surface with raspberry jam (not really, but the adhesive sure does resemble it).

Then install manifold.

And torque. It was going to be awhile before I get the engine in, so I re-bagged it to keep garage debris out.

So that's as far as I got before the break. This weekend I started the build back up again by installing the fuel tank. Here's the tank out of the box. Always nice to get a big cardboard box broken down.

Then I installed the mounting straps.

Put the fuel tank on a jack to wheel it into position.

The straps required some custom bending, as the tank was a tight fit. Once the bends were in place, the straps could be secured.

And here's the tank installed on the frame. I installed the filler tube and sender unit. I left the fuel pickup out as my in-tank fuel pump is on order. An in-tank pump will be much easier to deal with during hot Tucson weather, and quieter.

Now that the tank is in, I can determine where to install additional storage cubbies in the trunk space between the frame and the tank.

Steering system installed

Next on the list was the steering system. I borrowed my husband's drill press to drill the holes for the brake light switch mount.

Then drilled the holes in the frame for the master cylinder mount. 

Master cylinder mount brackets were painted glossy black to match the frame.

Getting the brake and accelerator pedals installed. Always nice when you can sit in the engine bay of the car to reach these places.

Once the pedals were installed, I had to do a test fit of the driving position. ;-)

Installing the steering shaft.

Got the front steering rack bolted on and the shaft attached.

And the shaft from the rack to the cockpit.

Everything has been fitted up, so I just need to temporarily disconnect the shaft to paint and install another aluminum panel, which is the one that goes behind the master cyclinders. After that I'll install the shaft again, do the final bolt up, and loctite all of the screws that require it.

Panhard rod & rear brakes installed

I'm on vacation from work right now, so my FFR build is on FIRE! Updating the blog is lagging a bit behind the actual work.

Got the panhard rod installed. For those that don't know, it's the long, shiny bar.

And the rear rotors and brake calipers got installed. Had to do some shimming to get the calipers on the rotors straight.

Now that the front and rear brakes were assembled, I could do a test fit of my wheels. Opened up one of the wheel boxes and fit the rim up. Here's the front, and now you can see why I painted my F panels this color:

And the rear:

So far so good. I ordered a pair of cleco pliers and set of clecos for the upcoming aluminum work. And this week I'm going to place an order for my engine, tranny, and EFI system. Details on all of that in future blog posts.

Since today is Christmas, here's what Santa brought me for my FFR.

Torque wrenches:

And Cobra valve covers and air cleaner:

Santa knows girls like shiny things for Christmas. :)

Front brakes and rear end installed

The day after I installed my front shocks, Koni sent a recall alert. Thankfully my date codes were easy to access and were outside of the affected date range, so I was good to go. I'm not very far along in the build and haven't bolted many parts on, so it would suck to have to unbolt the parts that I just put on and send them back. So the build continues.

I got my front brake calipers assembled, which was easier to do on the workbench.

Then it was time to put the front rotors on and bolt the calipers on.

Assembled front end.

Next was the rear end, which has been sitting on a furniture dolly ever since it was painted and assembled. I got the control arms bolted on, then we wheeled the rear end under the car.

Just a few small snags here. The bolts to mount the control arms to the frame were missing in the hardware bag, so Zac made a quick run to Ace hardware to get temporary bolts. We ordered the correct strength bolts through McMaster-Carr, which will be here next week and I can switch the temporary bolts out. Also, the rear shock springs came in contact with the frame, so we decided to flip the shocks upside down for better clearance.

I'm glad I painted the rear end glossy black, which matches the frame nicely.

And here's the rear end with the floor jack rolled away! In the background, more cardboard boxes broken down. I can now fit my wheels and lower steering shaft boxes in the garage and move them out of the front living room.